Asian Video games preparations are a household affair for sport climber Search engine optimization Chae-hyun
Former world champion and two-time Asian champion sport climber Search engine optimization Chae-hyun’s quest to medal within the upcoming Asian Video games and the 2024 Olympics is a household affair, along with her father Search engine optimization Jong-kuk persevering with to work as her main coach.
“I am presupposed to name my dad Coach Search engine optimization, however I skip ‘coach’ as a result of it is awkward,” the youthful Search engine optimization advised the JoongAng Ilbo at Seojongkuk Climbing Health club in Yeongdeungpo District, western Seoul on March 6.
The 19-year-old climber, already a former world champion and an Olympic finalist, is a member of the Korean nationwide climbing workforce and has been coaching along with her father, who was appointed as the pinnacle coach of the Korean nationwide workforce after the delayed 2020 Tokyo Olympics.
Search engine optimization senior took cost of the workforce in October 2021 and has continued to work his daughter, who he has coached since she was younger. A father or mother working with their very own little one on the nationwide workforce is uncommon, though the Seos aren’t the one ones — Korean basketball legend Hur Jae, then nationwide basketball workforce head coach, coached each of his sons Heo Ung and Heo Hoon.
Search engine optimization Jong-kuk says he is conscious of the optics when a father or mother finally ends up teaching their little one, however thinks Search engine optimization Chae-hyun’s success on the wall speaks for itself.
“Chae-hyun wouldn’t have discovered from me if she had not improved,” he mentioned. “She would have gone to a distinct coach if that was the case.”
Search engine optimization Chae-hyun received a gold medal on the Worldwide Federation of Sport Climbing (ISFC) World Championships in 2021, earlier than profitable two golds within the ISFC Climbing Asian Championships final October — one gold in mixed and the opposite in lead.
Sports activities climbing has three disciplines: Pace, bouldering and lead.
In pace, athletes compete to climb an similar 15-meter (50-foot) wall set at an angle of 95 levels sooner than their opponents.
In bouldering, athletes climb completely different routes with out ropes inside 4 minutes. The routes differ in problem and athletes don’t get to see them prematurely.
In lead, athletes try and climb as excessive as they’ll on a 15-meter wall inside six minutes.
Mixed is a mix of all three and is a contentious self-discipline as most climbers aren’t usually skilled throughout all three varieties. Search engine optimization Chae-hyun used to wrestle in mixed as a result of she is a precision climber not a pace climber, performing much better in lead and bouldering than pace.
Just lately some tournaments have began to exclude pace from mixed occasions, a choice that has labored in Search engine optimization Chae-hyun’s favor.
Each the Asian Video games and Olympics will exclude pace from the mixed self-discipline, making Search engine optimization Chae-hyun a severe medal contender at each occasions.
Her greatest rivals are Ai Mori of Japan and Janja Garnbret of Slovenia.
“She has strengthened her lower-body power since it’s needed in massive actions in bouldering,” Search engine optimization Jong-kuk mentioned. “The heaviest she may elevate was 24 kilograms (54 kilos) however raised it to 42 kilograms (93 kilos). She does pull-ups with 4 10-kilogram (22 kilos) round dumbbells.”
Search engine optimization Chae-hyun, who weighs 51.5 kilograms (115.7 kilos) and stands at 1.63 meters (5.3 foot), avoids a strict weight loss program when in coaching, opting as an alternative for a typical calorie-heavy teenage weight loss program of fried rooster and tteokbokki (rice muffins in a spicy sauce).
“I used to achieve 4 kilograms (8.8 kilos) after a contest as a result of I used to be a foodie,” Search engine optimization Jong-kuk. “I let Chae-hyun eat what she needs. She eats brunch on her personal at 10 a.m. and has two meals round 5 p.m., with the meals she likes.”
Search engine optimization Jong-kuk was a member of the Korean nationwide mountain climbing workforce from 2013 to 2019. The 2 Seos collectively are nicknamed Spider Father and Spider Daughter, a nod to Search engine optimization Chae-hyun’s nickname Spidergirl.
“My daughter is calm and doesn’t hesitate like me,” Search engine optimization Jong-kuk mentioned. “Chae-hyun doesn’t get nervous as she is from Gen Z. We frequently compete one another, but when I might be like her, I’d have been a severe competitor as an alternative of a coach.”
Search engine optimization Jong-kuk took his daughter in a child provider and reached the apogee of a mountain along with her when she was seven months previous.
Search engine optimization Chae-hyun nonetheless is not afraid to step away from the climbing wall. She reached the summit of La Rambla in Spain final November, changing into the primary Asian feminine to take action.
The mountain’s rock face is 41 meters (135 ft) excessive with a constant overhang, making it an especially technically troublesome climb.
“It was my dream and I reached the summit after seven makes an attempt,” Search engine optimization Chae-hyun mentioned.
Climbing has at all times been part of the youthful Search engine optimization’s life.
“She has been on climbing adventures with me, visiting the US or Greece, since she was a fifth-grader,” Search engine optimization Jong-kuk mentioned. “Climbing has turn into a sport, however the nature of it’s rock-climbing and there’s a lot to be taught in nature. I let her get pleasure from it naturally somewhat than forcing her to attain her mother and father’ unfulfilled dream.”
Search engine optimization Chae-hyun acquired a three-year scholarship as she topped her class in Seoul Shingjeong Excessive Faculty in Gangseo District, western Seoul, however selected to not attend college final yr.
“I used to be not in a position to examine whereas I needed to be abroad for 3 to 4 months in a yr. I like science, so I hope to main in sports activities science in college sometime,” Search engine optimization Chae-hyun mentioned.
Search engine optimization Chae-hyun’s mom Jeon So-yeong can also be a climber, having met the elder Search engine optimization at his climbing membership and in addition competed for the nationwide climbing workforce.
“My spouse and my daughter are my college students,” Search engine optimization Jong-kuk mentioned. “I hope Chae-hyun’s future boyfriend likes climbing too. My dream is to go on a mountain climbing journey as a bunch of 4.”
BY PARK RIN [[email protected]]